Why has it taken so long for magazines to distance themselves from Terry Richardson?
Kate Upton in a bikini, pulling the bottoms down. A teenage, topless Daisy Lowe kissing her then-boyfriend. Miley Cyrus on a giant wrecking ball, naked but for a pair of Dr Martens. Since the 90s, the photographer Terry Richardson has been known for an almost soft-porn aesthetic, which includes nudity, innuendo and simulated sex acts.
One of fashion photography’s biggest names, Richardson has photographed Barack Obama, taken pictures for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and GQ, and directed pop videos for Beyoncé, as well as Cyrus. He even has a nickname – Uncle Terry.
If that sounds creepy, that’s because it is. Richardson has been called out by models accusing him of suspect behaviour. It seems they have finally been listened to: Condé Nast International, the publishing company that includes Vogue, GQ and Vanity Fair in its stable, has stopped its magazines from working with him again, not renewing his contract, according to the reports. A leaked email, from James Woodhouse, the executive vice president, reads: “Condé Nast would like to no longer work with … Terry Richardson.”
Why have things changed now? It may, of course, be due to
the Weinstein effect. Caryn Franklin, the fashion journalist and
diversity campaigner, first wrote about Richardson’s behaviour in 2013.
She thinks the tipping point comes down to the fact that “we have had
several very high-profile predators that have been stopped – Jimmy
Savile, Max Clifford, Rolf Harris and Harvey Weinstein.”
Like Weinstein,
Franklin says Richardson was protected for a long time by other
powerful people: “I have had people I respect say to me: ‘But he’s a
very nice person, you simply don’t know him’. I’ve had them suggest that
I am trying to damage his career.” Richardson has always denied abuse.
Franklin is joined by models Cameron Russell and Edie Campbell in her crusade to protect young women in the fashion industry. The duo
have been vocal on social media this month, sharing stories of abuse on
Instagram with the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse. Christy
Turlington also came out to say “the fashion industry is surrounded by predators."
Even before the Richardson news broke, it was announced that New York is introducing the Models Harassment Model Protection Act,
after consultation with the Model Alliance, the organisation led by
ex-model Sara Ziff. The intention is that models will now be protected
in the photoshoot environment, with brands and magazines liable should
harassment occur.
To see this as the death knell of Richardson’s career is
probably overstating the power of Condé Nast. “People who have spoken
out haven’t damaged his career,” says Franklin. “He has damaged his
career … I categorically am not concerned with whether he can earn his
next million.”
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