Milan Fashion Week Fall 2017: Everything You Need to Know
When it comes to fashion capitals, Milan separates itself from the
pack by stocking its roster with designers and brands that know how to
push menswear forward, but keep wearability top of mind (which is not
always an easy balancing act). It's the reason we come away from five
days of the city's runway shows, presentations, and showrooms with a
laundry list of trends and standout items that are going to define how
most of us will want to get dressed in six months. Also, we come away
stuffed with cured meats and carbs. Here's everything you need to know
about what designers are cooking up for Fall/Winter 2017:
Neil Barrett's last two collections were excellent and the designer's Fall 2017 kept
that momentum humming right along. Barrett's clothes are best when they
straddle that divide between two aesthetic worlds: Gattica-esque
future-wear territory and nostalgia-tinged wardrobe staples (leather car
coats, shetland sweaters) and that's just what this wearable,
thoroughly modern lineup achieved.
The first menswear collection from Marni's new creative
director Francesco Risso—formerly of Prada's in-house design
team—stayed true to the label's left-of-center POV. The hallmarks were
there: the playing with proportion (this time jackets came long, pants
cam high-waisted and billowing), the unexpected accessories (bi-color
afro-shaped fur hats), and a combo of colors that could best be
described as Seuss-ian.
No matter how big the brand or respected the designer, everyone's trying
to get their goods noticed at fashion week. It's as much an opportunity
for buyers and editors to get stoked about a new season of piping hot
menswear as it is for brands to market themselves as the creators of
said piping hot menswear.
This season, Dolce & Gabbana did their best to really
cut through the competition by calling on a squad of celebrity
offspring (the sons of Jude Law, Rev. Run, Cindy Crawford), social media
#influencers (#spon), and —all —not to sit
front row or blog about their runway show, but be in their runway show,
in looks they styled themselves. The clothes were everything a rich
dilettante could want: regal, maximalist and military-tinged, topped off
with a crown (or featuring a crown print—the inspiration was The New
Princes, after all).
Nick Jonas was front row at Emporio Armani, rolling
into the company's Tadao Ando-designed headquarters looking sleek AF in a
textured shawl collar tailored jacket worn with a noragi-style shirt underneath it (all EA, naturally). As for the show, Mr. Armani made a
case that you should want to pet everything in your closet come fall.
The lineup was heavy on velvet sportcoats, velvet pants, shearling
linings, and a Bubba-level list of fur pieces: fur patchwork jackets,
fur hoods, fur scarves, fur-trimmed tote bags, even what can only be
described as a fur fanny back for your chest (a fur harness?).
Before you talk about the Ermenegildo Zegna show, you
have to talk about the Ermenegildo Zegna set, which took place among
German artist Anselm Kiefer's Seven Heavenly Palaces installation of
concrete slab sculptures and large-scale paintings, all housed inside a
massive warehouse space:
Now, about the show: Alessandro Sartori, the menswear designer who
helped define Z Zegna before decamping for Berluti five years ago is now
back at the luxury menswear giant as artistic director of Ermenegildo
Zegna. His first outing for the label's Couture moniker had Sartori's
signature blend of tailoring and sportswear, but done up in ultra luxe
fabrics. There was plenty of tailoring, of course, but also excellent
outerwear, relaxed-fit and pooling-leg trousers (it's starting), and
some truly standout sunglasses. And because rich guys love immediate
gratification and this whole buy-now, wear-now business strategy seems
to be working out, Zegna customers can actually buy the designer's
favorite looks right now through the company's made to measure program.
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