Like Tweedledum and Tweedledee, fashion and fantasy go hand in hand. That’s the idea behind “Fairy Tale Fashion,” an enchanting new exhibition setting up now at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology for its Friday opening.
“I’d been considering exploring the concept of fairy-tale
fashion for quite some time,” says associate curator Colleen Hill, who
organized the show. “But it was really when Dolce & Gabbana
presented their fall 2014 collection — which had a clear fairy-tale
theme — that I thought, ‘This would be a really fun topic to explore a
little bit further.’”
Featuring some 80 objects dating from the 18th century to the
present, the FIT show explores fairy tales through the lens of high
fashion and couture.
The exhibition begins with images that have helped to shape and make
iconic the fairy-tale aesthetic. These include large-scale photographs
from British artist Kirsty Mitchell’s “Wonderland” series, as well as
whimsical illustrations by notable early-20th-century artists such as
Arthur Rackham and Edmund Dulac.
The heart of the exhibition, however, is the main gallery space,
where fashion interpretations of 14 fairy tales are staged within four
settings: a forest, a castle, the sea and parallel worlds.
Because “the clothing and accessories in the show are spectacular, we
wanted to make sure the main focus was on the garments themselves,”
Hill says, adding that she did not commission an actual Disneyland-style
fortress. Rather, the castle scenery is printed on large scrims and lit
using colored gels.
In the forest, visitors will encounter Snow White, Rapunzel and
Hill’s favorite area: a gallery dedicated to Little Red Riding Hood.
There, expect several iterations of Miss Riding Hood’s signature piece,
from a late-18th-century cloak to a sinister-looking Comme des Garçons
creation shown in spring 2015.
The castle, located in the center of the gallery, is dedicated to
tales like “Cinderella,” “Sleeping Beauty” and “The Snow Queen,” among
others. The sea is an ode to swans and — what else? — mermaids. Rodarte
makes a splash here.
And in parallel worlds, “Alice in Wonderland” and “The Wizard of Oz”
are represented by the likes of Manish Arora and Christian Louboutin,
who crafted a bedazzled stiletto recalling Dorothy’s ruby slipper.
To bring the fantasy fashion show to life, Hill started by selecting
clothing and accessories that she felt resonated with mostly well-known
texts from the likes of Hans Christian Andersen, Charles Perrault and
the Brothers Grimm. From there, she sifted through the museum’s
extensive permanent collection to find pertinent pieces, and finally
called on contemporary design houses — from Alexander McQueen to Tom
Ford — who fit the fantasy bill.
“It’s interesting because this is really my take on [designers’] work
in many cases, so there are a few [pieces] that were directly inspired
by fairy tales, but oftentimes it was me writing to them and saying,
‘I’m talking about this particular story and I think this dress or pair
of shoes would be a great way to illustrate it,’ ” Hill explains.
“Fortunately, I got a lot of positive responses with that approach.
“If nothing else, I think that this exhibition gives a very strong
sense of this concept of fantasy in fashion, and the continuing
importance of that,” Hill says, before suggesting why the show is sure
to be a crowd-pleaser: “We love to be wowed.”
“Fairy Tale Fashion” runs through April 16 at the Museum at the
Fashion Institute of Technology, 227 W. 27th St., at Seventh Ave.; fitnyc.edu/museum. Free.
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