For Fairy Tale Fashion, The Museum at FIT’s
latest exhibition which opens tomorrow, curator Colleen Hill has
produced an extraordinarily vivid and spellbinding exhibition,
creating a fantasy land of fantastical clothes juxtaposed against moody
lights and filmy screens.
The Museum at FIT brings to life classic fairy tales through fantastical,
fairy-tale inspired fashions
The idea for the exhibition was sparked Dolce and Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection’s fairy tale theme.
According to Ms. Hill, “Fairy tales are simultaneously fascinating and
familiar, and that’s what makes them such a rich subject for fashion.”
Fairy tales are known for their “enchantment” upon the reader, thanks
to the vivid descriptions of the world the characters live in, using
elements such as clothes to illustrate story symbols and to push plot.
Fantasy and fashion are inexorably linked, which is why Ms. Hill
believes that designers, “consciously or subconsciously continue to be
influenced by fairy tales.”
There were a few points where the connection between garment and
story seemed a bit tenuous, but the show glides past these glitches with
a tightly curated and well-organized methodology.
Fairy Tale Fashion is like a dive into a magical,
surrealistic world. The winding path going from story to story is framed
by filmy, dreamlike screens, depicting abstracted melancholy forests
for the Little Red Riding Hood, terrifying jagged cliffs for The Wizard of Oz, refracting blues and greens of the deep sea for The Little Mermaid, and stone parapets surrounding the spindly castle towers for Sleeping Beauty. It creates a maze, drawing you ever closer to the center, to the castle where Cinderella meets her prince.
Each section tells a different story. You begin with Little Red Riding Hood,
where a Gothic typeset placard (there is one by each section of the
exhibition) summarizes the story. The instant recognizable quality of
the red hooded cloak is the focus here, with an 18th century
country cloak next to a beaded Altuzarra hooded gown and a futuristic,
patent leather dress with a peaked hood by Commé des Garçons. You then
proceed into the thorny thicket surrounding the Beast’s castle for Beauty and the Beast.
The rose – a prominent theme – is depicted in a rose dress by Rodarte,
while the Beast’s various forms of bestiality, as interpreted by
illustrators over the years, is displayed. You then turn a corner and
enter the rabbit hole with Alice in Wonderland, a story known for its imaginative and fantastical themes. A Manish Arora dress inspired by Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland
film is adorned in playing cards, paired with harlequin tights and a
rabbit head; a creative interpretation of the Queen of Heart’s army of
playing cards.
After your adventures in Wonderland, you are immersed in the underwater world of The Little Mermaid and a lesser known tale, The Swan Maidens.
Ethereal dresses in layers of gossamer tulle and frothy chiffon
highlight the mystical mermaids and magical swans in both stories. Next
is the Wizard of Oz, where rich colors like Dorothy’s Christian Louboutin sparkling ruby red slippers are displayed next to an emerald Molyneux gown for Dorothy’s arrival to the Emerald City.
The stories continue, leading to the forest of the seven dwarves, where Snow White
eats the evil queen’s poisonous apple, depicted in a gem-encrusted
Judith Lieber apple clutch. A highlight here is the recreation of Alice +
Olivia’s glass coffin
from the fall 2014 collection where a model lay down in it wearing a
rhinestone studded gown in black – the color of mourning and death.
The exhibition ends with the ultimate rags to riches story, Cinderella,
of an ordinary girl who marries royalty. On one side are Cinderella’s
ragged clothes as a maid: one of which is a charred and ripped Giles
fall 2012 gown. The other, glass slippers by Naritaka Tatehana and a
gold dress from Altuzarra’s spring 2015 collection – represent
Cinderella’s transformation into a princess at the ball. It is a happy
ending to a phenomenal show, and a reminder of why fairy tales continue
to captivate: they are an expression of hope and fantasy intertwined
with the idea that dreams can possibly come true.
~~~
Fairy Tale Fashion will be on view in The Museum at FIT’s Special Exhibitions Gallery from January 15 until April 16, 2016
The Museum at FIT is open Tuesday-Friday from Noon-8 p.m., and Saturday from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. and is located at:
Seventh Avenue at 27th Street, New York City, 10001-5992.
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