Jessica Chastain, Amy Adams, Jane Fonda,
Kate Hudson—no other designer dressed as many boldfacers as Donatella
Versace did at the Golden Globes. If tonight's Atelier Versace show is
anything to go on, DV may score even more red carpet time at the Grammys
two Sundays from now. The idea this season, as she put it, was "to go
back to the shape of a woman's body, which is curvy." There wasn't a
straight line to be found, not on the terrific black tailleurs that
opened the show, nor on a trio of the youthful emoji-embroidered
minidresses worn with matching knee-high boots, and definitely not on
the evening dresses with their swirling arabesque insets of nude mesh.
The color palette was a bracing mix of black, white, red, and royal blue. And to start, at least, the clothes were remarkably unadorned by couture standards. There wasn't a single bead until look 14. That meant cut and fit had to count. Versace's experiments with a new, more generous volume—seen on dirndl-style skirts and on a dress with a shorter-in-front and longer-in-back hem—didn't quite gel.
The color palette was a bracing mix of black, white, red, and royal blue. And to start, at least, the clothes were remarkably unadorned by couture standards. There wasn't a single bead until look 14. That meant cut and fit had to count. Versace's experiments with a new, more generous volume—seen on dirndl-style skirts and on a dress with a shorter-in-front and longer-in-back hem—didn't quite gel.
She's much
more in her element with a body-hugging silhouette. And hug these
clothes certainly did. Think Cher in her Oscar-winning days with an
aerodynamic dash of Olympic ice-skater thrown in. The best numbers in
this hit-and-miss collection were the most discreet: those black suits
with the asymmetrical portrait necklines; one-shoulder jumpsuits with a
slit up a flared leg; a gracefully clingy one-sleeve white gown.
Versace made up for the collection's early absence of beading as the show continued with a jet-embroidered dress so glossy it looked painted on, and a somewhat clunkier rubberized lace halter gown. By the end, Eva Herzigova and Amber Valletta's numbers were more cutout than they were dress. Apart from Kate Hudson, who sat in the front row with mama Goldie Hawn, Hollywood types may look askance at going nearly nude to a big awards show, or anywhere else. The music crowd is a much more freewheeling bunch: They're on a wavelength that Donatella is utterly attuned to.
Versace made up for the collection's early absence of beading as the show continued with a jet-embroidered dress so glossy it looked painted on, and a somewhat clunkier rubberized lace halter gown. By the end, Eva Herzigova and Amber Valletta's numbers were more cutout than they were dress. Apart from Kate Hudson, who sat in the front row with mama Goldie Hawn, Hollywood types may look askance at going nearly nude to a big awards show, or anywhere else. The music crowd is a much more freewheeling bunch: They're on a wavelength that Donatella is utterly attuned to.
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