FIVE YEARS AGO! One of Donatella's best Work for Menswear! IT was so Nineties,” we heard someone say after the Versace
spring/summer 2013 show today. Precisely what century the fashion follower was referring to, remains open to interpretation.
Donatella Versace's menswear display was a nod to classic art, her brother Gianni’s favoured time period. With the golden Greek key borders lining rolled-up shirts-cum-sleeping gowns, calf-high gladiator sandals and shimmering wallet holsters, this was one ancient feast to behold.
If the world is gearing up for another fight, the Italians are entering the arena in style. Predominant flashes of gold were paired with white, black, grey, bronze and metallic hues to create an imperious effect. A well-cut, padded and sleeveless double-breasted jacket in turquoise channelled the way for punchy floral prints to enter the scene, eventually culminating in an explosion of fuchsia.
The warriors were equipped to fight in water as well as on dry land – tight trunks and low-cut briefs, sometimes laced and partially see-through, added an aquatic component to the collection. Miniscule embellishments and cut-outs made us think of cave paintings, but didn’t push it over the edge into the nostalgic.
It wasn’t just the Muhammad Ali boxing belts that made Versace’s presentation feel up to date. The manner in which the designer multiplied blazer pockets was progressive and innovative. But it was the demure, wearable night-time looks closing the show that re-established her role as a high priestess of Italian fashion.
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