Deploying his customary irreverence plus a seasoned eye for a sequin, Jeremy Scott today grasped the nettle of conventionally butch midwinter menswear.
"I think of it as a very GQ archetype, and I wanted to take it on because it is something I have never played with," he said. "So, buffalo plaid—how do I do that?"
Answer: repurpose this Maine staple for Mardi Gras with a garland of pastel metallic hibiscus. Such iconoclastic collisions and exaggerations—"I always overexaggerate"—were sprinkled liberally through a show Scott said he had imagined as a ramped-up Bruce Weber shoot.
It models meandered through a forest of snow-flecked firs as more of the artificial white stuff fell from above. Knitwear and the shearling coat were torn apart and put together again, in rainbow mosaic for the sheepskin and patches of Lurex, cable-knit, jersey, and logos on the long johns, cardigans, and sweaters.
A Scott-shot photo of ripped washed denim was digitally printed onto real denim as well as a down jacket. This marked the beginning of a section ideal for the overconfident, attention-seeking snowboarder in your life: because he can't ever wipe out if he's wearing a gold sequin Moschino snow jacket.
Fake fur came printed with classics from the animal canon—zebra and leopard—or plain, as worn by a blanketed Adam and Eve. Fake-fur fanny packs and Moon Boots, some thigh-high, flashed with gold Moschino buckling.
"I always try and push," Scott reasoned. "I think, What else is out there? And there is a ton that is missing from menswear that is still plausible but pushes the boundaries."
Hence, there was little here for any Moschino-keen wallflower. A duffle coat—"I call it a Paddington Bear coat," Scott said—was oversize with patent shoulders in unmissable yellow. A multi-tartan kilt, extended at the back up the spine, offered a secondary function as a scarf. Overalls came in sheer organza peppered with more Hawaiian florals.
The womenswear looks? Complementary: "They are in the snowy forest," Scott said, "but on their way to the rave."
Scott, like Moschino, likes his jokes, and of all of them in today's routine the biggest were the hats and two shoulder-slung bags shaped like enormous gloves.
The designer confirmed that the fingers offer no storage, "so that things don't get lost. I tried to be functional with my giant ski-glove bags." Function and humor—give that man a hand
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