THE word "restraint" isn't in John Galliano's vocabulary. For his autumn/winter menswear show, the designer - responsible for Dior's magnificently insane couture shows - decked his huge, courtyard runway with thousands of flickering candles and heaps of Swarowski crystals.
His references for the collection were drawn from four different historical and mythical contexts (as if one wasn't enough), and the runway show was the usual wildly styled extravaganza, with models dressed variously in fur satyr pants, lace knickers, huge regency wigs and tricorner hats.
Mad as it was, there were a lot of attractive details in the collection, including interesting cuts and gathers on the sleeves of 18th Century-inspired shirts and sporty blousons, hand embroidery on long, wide-lapelled frock coats, and great, wallpapery prints on sweatshirts.
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