Gaultier: On Broadway!

LIGHTS, camera, action – there was a Broadway feel to Jean Paul Gaultier's spring/summer collection this afternoon apparent from the outset with three dancers stretching their way a cross a catwalk stage decked out like the set of a dance studio, huge mirrors lining the back wall and bright spotlights beaming down.

Sitting comfortably, a few more stretches and a lunge later and it was time to begin – with pinned back rehearsal-style hair, over-emphasised eyebrows, dainty ballet lace-up flats and a series of leotard-come-swimsuits in raspberry, eggshell blue, chocolate, terracotta, fuchsia and black all with billowing capes trailing behind.

Hooped skirt and crinoline costume details came reworked on shoulders and on waistbands on a black and then caramel dress respectively, while sheer ballet blouses wrapped themselves around the body, gently falling off at the shoulder, and worn with slouchy (read plié-friendly) trousers - one pair in white, one pair in lace.

A move towards more structured daywear ensembles followed – with high waists creeping up on stretchy flared pants, wraparound shirts worn beneath their braces, and belted jacket and pencil skirt combinations.

While we're not sure how receptive anyone will be to wearing a leotard over their suit and trend that will undoubtedly catch on – and a detail to note – was tying the ribbon of ballet shoes (which in this show evolved from simple flats to sandals to seriously pointy shoes and platforms) over and around the trouser legs at the ankle.

Looks were toughened up with layers; the introduction of chain mail slouchy bags worn across the body, tri-buckle belts or neon orange and green scarves wound around the waist, necklaces layered over henna tattoo style prints, which featured later on wispy dresses worn with leading lady dressing gowns in lace, black and coral.

Stoles (in fuchsia, red or black) slung over the shoulder added a touch of old Hollywood glamour – to a short silver shimmering chain mail dress worn over a longer navy chemise style, a semi-transparent lace pink number, ruffle edged negligees and a maypole ribbon adorned number that streamed from the straps to contour the body in a cascade of colour.