Prostitution in the Fashion Industry
From Runways to Redlight Districts
Europe is a wonderful place to be a fashion designer, photographer or
model. Or so the fashion industry tells us. There are always plenty of
opportunities for a pretty girl to make some money showing off some
clothes and some skin.
But not according to former fashion editor Louise Gagnon and several
models who have since quit the industry and have described as the seedy
underbelly of the fashion industry. An industry filled with illicit
drugs, prostitution, forced anorexia and mental/physical abuse.
Prostitution, of course, is nothing new. The industry is ever changing
and broad reaching around the globe, from the streets of Thailand to
high class London escorts,
to the outrageous parties of Las Vegas - wherever there is money to be
made off of men, prostitution is there - with many of its far reaching
social aspects. Thus there is no surprise that prostitution permeates
the fashion industry like termites in a tree.
Most people simply would not assume there would be any such connections
between the fashion world and the darker world of drugs and prostitution
- the fashion industry has a tendency to gloss over anything that gives
the industry a bad rep - including anorexia within the modeling
industry. Though it may disturb some individuals, Louise Gagnon’s story
deserves to be heard.
Louise now lives in sunny south California where she makes custom
wedding dresses for high paying clients, but her introduction to the
fashion industry was as a model during the 1980s. She was 18 years old
when she began modelling in Paris in 1983, and while her time on the
runways and in front of the camera was short she managed to leverage her
way into an assistant editor position at a French fashion magazine, but
not before becoming addicted heroin and doing a variety of photo shoots
she'd rather not remember and has difficulty discussing.
"I was raped regularly. Sometimes multiple times per week. I was
depressed all the time and the only thing that made me feel better was
the heroin. It didn't stop when I stopped modelling either. I was in
some bad relationships with the photographers who I had met years
earlier and I was involved with them professionally so I had to ignore
my feelings. It was complicated and I became more and more disgusted at
myself everyday. I finally decided I needed to quit before I killed
myself." - Louise Gagnon.
Louise got help with her drug addiction and since quitting the industry
in 1999 she has spoken out from time to time on issues of prostitution,
rape and drug addiction in the fashion industry. She says she is not
alone with these problems either and says that the problems are industry
wide and recalls shooting heroin with models and being in "rape orgies"
with male friends of the photographers and other models.
"One of my friends was out of control. She would do a fashion shoot in
Paris in the afternoon or morning and hop a train to Amsterdam so she
could be in the redlight district by evening. She thought of it as a
career, but when her body turned up in a canal in 1998 I started getting
really paranoid. I mean, that could have easily been me." - Louise
Gagnon.
Hardly the only one speaking out on this matter Carré Otis
is a former supermodel who survived anorexia, heroin/cocaine addiction,
and repeated rapes. Prior to her 1999 heart seizure her drug addiction
was getting steadily worse, she was surviving on green tea and small
doses of vegetarian food, and she was easily persuaded into drugs and
unsolicited sex because she couldn't say no to the people paying for her
expensive lifestyle.
Her abusive husband Mickey Rourke didn't help either. Rourke was jealous
of Carré Otis's relationships with several fashion photographers
(several of which raped her) and beat her on multiple occasions.
In 1991 Carré Otis got a gunshot wound to her shoulder during a visit
with Rourke in Santa Fe, New Mexico. She later claimed that the .357
Magnum went off when she dropped her purse on a table.
On July 18th 1994, Otis was slapped, knocked down, and kicked in a
Hollywood office by Mickey Rourke. Rourke was charged but Otis refused
to testify against him in court. They divorced the same year.
Following her divorce her career as a fashion supermodel continued to
take off, but her private life was one of constant drug addiction and
repeated rapes from people she was employed with.
The fashion industry likes to keep a lid on these events however and no
"reputable fashion magazine" would dare talk out against all the
problems going on in the industry. Its not so much that the fashion
industry is a prostitution ring in disguise, but that it is a group of
people that collectively has decided to exploit the models sexually and
mentally using a combination of peer pressure, money, drugs and mental
mind games.
That combination is turning out to be lethal for the models who get over
their heads with anorexia problems and drug addiction, but adding
prostitution/rape to the list of personal problems just makes things so
much more complicated.
To leave the industry a model would have to simultaneously cut off all
contact with the people who are a bad influence. This can be done as
Carré Otis has already demonstrated.
This process can be made easier by trying to change your focus in the
industry. Carré Otis put on 30 lbs and became a model for larger sizes
while Louise Gagnon switched to fashion magazines and switched again to
the wedding industry. Obviously its difficult to leave the industry
entirely, but there are other aspects of the industry that aren't so
corrupted by wealth and power.
Fashion models aren't the only people with this unusualy problem. In
2007 Marie Claire published an article about Brazilian prostitutes who
have quite the sex industry in favour of the fashion industry. The
article focused on the new fashion label Daspu (short for 'das putas'
which means 'from the whores') and a mockery of Daslu, Brazil's most
expensive fashion boutique. All of the models and designers for Daspu
are former prostitutes who sold their bodies for as little as $30/hour.
Prostitution is not illegal in Brazil, but the Penal Code criminalises
'agents of prostitution' – pimps, brothel owners and madams. Daspu hopes
to help prostitutes to get out of their abusive relationships with
their pimps and try something that doesn't involve doing cheap tricks
for money. The brainchild is former prostitute former prostitute
Gabriela Leite, now 54, who became a prostitute at the age of 20, but
later became political active.
"I became politically active in 1978, when police murdered my friend for
being a prostitute. That year, there was a police crackdown and we were
banned from leaving our building, but my friend went out anyway. They
arrested her, took her to the police station and beat her to death." -
Gabriela Leite.
Leite organized a protest agains the police and the officer who beat her
friend to death was eventually dismissed from the force. Since then she
has kept on marching and trying to help prostitutes secure more rights,
more safety and to help them get out of the business.
Although
certainly not the stay-at-home kind Gabriela Leite now has two daughters
and a granddaughter and continues to fight to change the system.
Not all fashion models are prostitute (or former prostitutes like the
example above), but when you look at some of the centerfolds models do
for men's magazines you realize that some of the models are taking it a
step farther into the porn industry. They aren't even marketing a
fashion article or perfume anymore, they're marketing themselves as sex
objects. Supermodel Tila Tequila Nugyen for example has openly embraced the porn industry and is trying to market herself as a supermodel, a porn star and a musician.
Lest we forget we now live in an era where celebrity sex idols (ie. Paris Hilton and Pamela Anderson)
routinely make homemade sex videos that accidentally get leaked to the
public and despite this turns them into even bigger celebrities.
In
Paris Hilton's case it made her career and she has since leveraged
herself into fashion and music deals.
Author Sheila Jeffreys has written a book (Beauty and Misogyny: Harmful
Cultural Practices in the West) in which she points out that the fashion
industry and the porn industry are becoming cross connected. "The sex
industry sells clothes and the fashion industry sells prostitution and
pornography." And she's not the only author with this assessment.
Madonna's pro-prostitution "Sex" book in which she discusses ideas that
prostitution gives women control over men. Although realistically this
is Madonna's fantasy version in which the prostitutes are wearing
stilletos and lingerie while the men are handcuffed to the bed. And that
is exactly what it is, Madonna's fantasy, and is totally out of touch
with reality.
The myth that prostitutes hold sexual power over men is completely bogus
and in turn simply serves to enforce male dominancy over prostitutes
who are led into the false assumption that they are somehow in control.
Research into sex industry by Giobbe (1991), Parriott (1994) and Farley
(1998) all concluded that the vast majority of prostitutes want to get
out of the business and were dragged into the sex industry by
boyfriends/pimps often because they were in a similar industry such as
stripping, modelling, acting, massage therapy and advertising.
The most despicable and disturbing of all is the child models. We can
only imagine the kind of mental damage children in the fashion industry
are going through when being asked to pose scantily clad on runways and
in front of cameras.
Parents of the children have to be extra wary about sending their
children to work for photographers, who despite their possibly great
reputations are always one or two steps away from being a child rapist.
Chaperones are a definite must and if the parents are disturbed by what
they are seeing too much of it is certainly time to pull the plug. Mind
you the damage to the child's psyche might already be done.
And its not just the girls who are in danger, the boys are also prone to
gay pedophiles. For all we know members of the Catholic Church like to
find their "choir boys" by searching the child modelling agencies for
young boys. We shouldn't be too surprised if it is true.
In Thailand there are more underage prostitutes than there is anywhere
else in the world. In stark contrast Thailand's child modelling industry
is basically non-existent.
So is the fashion industry just a big prostitution ring in disguise? No. Absolutely not.
But there is certainly a lot of prostitution going on behind closed
doors, and it is basically legalized prostitution for the wealthy.
In many countries prostitution is illegal, but it is not strictly
inforced. The prostitutes get away with it and charges are rarely laid.
Conviction rates for "Johns" are pathetically low because it is often
difficult to determine whether any crime has been convicted.
Fashion models create a legitimate front because they're supposed to be
advertising something (clothes, beer, shopping bags, perfume, etc.) but
in reality are selling their bodies as a form of cheap entertainment,
usually just visually, but they can also be selling themselves regularly
behind closed doors.
Part of the problem is the belief that anorexia is beautiful, and
fashion models being the epitome of this, attract a certain kind of man
who is looking for the ultra-thin models and is willing to pay extra for
it. There is some prestige involved with saying "I fucked Naomi Campbell" or "I had a 69 with Tyra Banks".
It is a bit like "Eyes Wide Shut", the Tom Cruise/Nicole Kidman movie in
which they discover a secret society of wealthy people who employ
high-class models to have wild sex orgies. What happens in real life is
probably not that different from what goes on in that movie. Take away
the cloak and dagger stuff, and the international modelling and fashion
industry really becomes quite sleazy.
Police in France and Britain have cracked down on prostitution within
the modelling industry, but it still continues to flourish. People like
money and sex, so the world's oldest profession is very hard to stop.
Speaking out against prostitution in the fashion industry doesn't help a
person's career. People are expected to stay quiet or have their
careers ruined. Apparently if anyone breaks this code of silence, they
become ostracized from much of the modelling community.
Some people will tell you that there is no prostitution in the fashion
industry, that they've been in the fashion industry for years and
they've never encountered prostitution or rape in their business. Some
will also tell you that if two consenting adults, a model and a
photographer, decide to have sex after the shoot is over it is really
none of your business and that isn't prostitution because they both
agreed to it. Or even the analogy that actresses sleep with movie
directors/producers regularly (and sometimes they marry them) and that
doesn't make them prostitutes.
But they can't all be right. You have to admit sexual attraction does
happen, so there is going to be sex in the industry, it is simply to be
expected.
And you can't expect the model to be not be thinking "Hey, if a screw
this guy will he pay me more or hire me again?" or "If I do this will it
help my career?"
It is a slippery slope downhill.
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