Olivier Rousteing Poses Nude for Têtu: Why Do So Many Male Fashion Designers Drop Trou?
“It was my idea,” Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing said proudly when he was asked why he decided to pose buck naked for the cover of the latest issue of the French magazine Têtu. “I wanted to show that being naked is one of the most chic things. It’s an expression of a concept.”
Rousteing may be the latest male fashion designer to pose in nothing
but his friendship bracelets, but he is hardly alone in this expression
of a concept: The desire to shed one’s clothes and stare at a camera has
been indulged by these guys since at least 1971, when Yves Saint Laurent did the same thing—his single accessory of choice not bracelets, but his trademark spectacles.
Between these two audacious Frenchmen are plenty of other fellows—Bernhard Willhelm, cover boy on the first issue of the legendary Butt magazine! Riccardo Tisci showing it all to Mert & Marcus! Tom Ford starkers for Steven Klein!
Why, you may ask, do men who make a living creating beautiful
fashions—almost always for women—feel the need to roll around in the
buff for our delectation? Why would we want to see the people who create
our clothes shed their own outfits?
Female designers never do this! Stretch your mind back to Coco Chanel, to Elsa Schiaparelli,
ladies so fearless in other ways—did they ever think of casting off
their cardis, losing their lobster frocks in front of a lens? Maybe this
is because women, no matter how accomplished—or even how
gorgeous—always feel they aren’t perfect enough to withstand this kind
of scrutiny. And of course, being photographed in the buff would
immediately devalue the seriousness and the strength of their
contributions, inviting derision, scorn, and no doubt a passel of
blathering, judgemental talking heads.
Musing on his numerous exposures, Marc Jacobs,
who, unlike St. Laurent, shed his eyeglasses along with his
inhibitions, confessed that he was as insecure about his looks as the
rest of us until he cut his hair, got a tan, went from 20 percent to
eight percent body fat (who would even know a thing like this?) and
wanted to celebrate his transformation by sharing it with the world. “I
finally felt like, for the first time in my life, I’m comfortable,” he
told a journalist recently. “I’m just as comfortable naked as I am
covering up.” Well, good for you, Marc! But it boggles the mind to think
of Miuccia, or even Donatella, saying the same thing.
Even Marc’s newfound confidence pales in intensity compared with Rick Owens,
a guy who is so enamored of the male physique that he featured flaccid
wieners on his most recent Paris runway. Owens has not only permanently
enshrined his naked likeness at his boutique in the Palais Royale
(created by the same folks who make the statues for Madame Tussauds),
but at his 2006 Pitti Uomo installation he offered a version of this
sculpture, depicting himself urinating into the mouth of—you’d never
guess—yet another Owens.
“The fact that I’ve presented myself in extreme
situations was just a cheerful way of saying there were few limits in
the world I was inviting you into,” he explained. Thanks for the
invitation, Rick, but before we RSVP, just confirming—guess there will
only be guys at this pajama-less party?
But for men, it seems like it’s the other way around. This peacock
syndrome is just another way of their saying—look at me! See how hot I
am? Their male gaze, directed at themselves, is perhaps just another
boast, another example of these kings of the world displaying their
power, their prowess.
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