Here we go again! Last week, Raf Simons
shocked the fashion world by announcing he was leaving the house of
Dior. And on Wednesday, Alber Elbaz pulled another punch by confirming
that he is leaving Lanvin.
While Simons was at the helm of Dior for less than four years, Elbaz has led Lanvin
for over 14. A steady, quiet presence at the top of the Paris fashion
game, Elbaz maintained a loyal following of women who preferred
romantic, feminine clothes to whatever latest trend led the street style
brigade.
WWD
first reported that he’d cleaned out his office and notified the design
team before the story broke. “While the parties are likely to
characterize the development as by mutual agreement, sources said the
rupture came following disagreements between the charismatic Israeli
designer and company principals: owner Shaw-Lan Wang and chief executive
officer Michèle Huiban,” wrote the trade paper.
Forget
mutual agreement, Elbaz penned a letter to the world saying that he was
leaving “on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder.” So he
was pushed out, which might not be as surprising at it seems given the
company’s consistently low sales. Without a hit shoe or handbag, a new
cosmetics line or massively popular fragrance, it didn’t quite enjoy the
profits of a Dior or Chanel, for example.
“I
wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have
worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the past 14
years,” Elbaz wrote. “Together, we have met the creative challenge
presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it
to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury houses.”
Will
he succeed Simons at Dior is the obvious question. He was up for the
job post-Galliano but passed because, unlike most creative directors, he
actually owns part of Lanvin. Coming from a house that didn’t make
money, however, doesn’t make him the most appealing candidate for a
brand that needs to sell like Dior.
The past week has been filled with grim headlines
like, “Fashion Is Moving Too Fast, and It’s Killing Creativity,” and “Overheated! Is Fashion Heading for a Burnout?” Killing creativity might be a bit dramatic, but it’s certainly heading for a much needed change.
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