So
it’s official: The Alexander Wang — well, what? Not era, since it was
less than three years — interregnum at Balenciaga is officially over.
The
creative director and the company have agreed to part ways, Mr. Wang to
concentrate on his namesake brand in New York, and Balenciaga to find a
new designer, leaving the rest of us to consider how this particular
abbreviated period will be viewed through the long lens of fashion.
I don’t think it will be remembered for the clothes,
which were fine, but which never exploded expectations in the way truly
original fashion can. They actually met all the predictable
expectations, reminding me most of what you’d think someone who had just
seen the Balenciaga archives and was full of respect and intimidation,
but was instructed to tweak it a bit for now, might produce. Bubble
skirts! White shirtdresses! Egg coats! With some studding. And so on.
There
was a signature bag, and a new scent, but nothing that sent the
fast-fashion brands scuttling off to create their own “homages,” or
moved the general silhouette in one direction or another. Nothing that
really sticks in the brain.
Nor
do I think it will be remembered as any sort of giant mistake. Growth,
while not jaw-dropping, seems to have been O.K. (and in the past
quarter, very good), store openings have continued apace, and both sides
have said appropriately respectful things about each other in their
farewell. Though it does once again raise questions about the feasibility of having one designer bridge two brands, two countries and two time zones.
Rather,
I think it will prove to have been a critical juncture in the evolution
of both Mr. Wang and Balenciaga, effectively changing the image of both
and setting them up for the future. Whether they can take advantage of
their altered circumstances is the question now.
For
Mr. Wang, for example, his stint at Balenciaga demonstrated to a
largely sceptical industry that the buzzy downtown kid with the
contemporary line could actually do high fashion, and work with a
Parisian atelier. It got him taken a lot more seriously. It also upped
his name recognition on the international stage — invaluable for his own
brand expansion — and made him a viable red carpet name.
For
Balenciaga, the shock of the appointment of a young New York kid known
for T-shirts at the hallowed house that Cristobal built, and his
subsequent not-terribleness, helped consumers make the break from the 15
years of the celebrated creative director Nicolas Ghesquière’s vision
for the brand, and their obsession therewith.
Mr.
Wang was effectively a design version of the bridge boyfriend. Now
Balenciaga, and its parent company, Kering, are free to find someone
else without the same expectations attached.
Speculation has already begun about who that might be. “An unknown,” à la Alessandro Michele at Gucci,
seems to be the odds-on favorite of the social media set at the moment.
For me, however, whether it is a name we recognize or one that has been
hidden in the wings of a design group is less important than what kind
of designer he or she will be.
Both
Mr. Michele, whose opening few Gucci collections have been widely
applauded (admittedly, less so by this critic) and Hedi Slimane of Yves
Saint Laurent, his fellow great Kering success story, are essentially
aggregators: Surfers of fashion history pulling a skirt from here, a
suit from there, recombining them and then dressing them up with
accessories and atmosphere so they seem new. In Mr. Slimane’s hands,
this has a hard-rock Los Angeles bent, in Mr. Michele’s a romantic
vintage vibe, but in both cases it is merchandised to the hilt, with
bags and shoes and boots and hats and sunglasses and so on, and in both
cases it’s a hit.
That
would suggest that a similar tack be taken at Balenciaga — hey, it’s
working, why not? — but to me that would miss the point. This house
above all fashion houses was known for its purity and commitment to
rethinking form and its relationship to women’s bodies and minds. It
needs a designer with that kind of rigor and ambition. Forget the merch:
Dream bigger. Dream about changing how women dress. Balenciaga deserves
it. So do we.
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