In the world of U.S. fashion, women's clothes tend to get most of the
glory. But the industry is aiming to change that, one chic skinny suit
at a time. Next week, New York welcomes its first ever stand-alone
Fashion Week for men.
This isn't new outside the U.S. — Europe's fashion capitals have been
holding men's fashion weeks for years. But in New York, menswear has
been tacked onto the much higher-profile women's collections shown in
September and February, making it seem like a much less glamorous, er,
little brother, as well as putting it out of sync with the market
schedule for men's clothes.
But the menswear market is growing faster than womenswear, and has been
for several years. That means it's the right time for the new venture,
says its chief organizer, Steven Kolb, CEO of the Council of Fashion
Designers of America.
"It was the perfect time to push the envelope and show what talent and
innovation there is in menswear," Kolb says. "We'll have a clean slate.
When you start from scratch, you can build it into what you want it to
be."
The week is shorter than the women's weeks — four days, not eight — and
the roster of designers a mere fraction, too. But some big names are
showing, along with a number of up-and-comers. Among the most prominent
labels: Michael Kors, Polo Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Thom Browne, Tommy Hilfiger,
and Rag & Bone. And there's a big name coming back: American
designer John Varvatos, who's been showing in Milan for years.
For Kors, one of the world's most successful designers who mounts
high-profile women's shows twice a year in New York, the new men's week
is a "huge plus," not only for his own men's collection — which he says
will have an "island life feel" this time — but for U.S. fashion.
"Anything that puts the focus on American designers and fashion in
general is a good thing," Kors said in an email message. "This is a big
step for the men's industry because it provides a larger platform for
conversation around menswear, and that's always important. "
Kors sees a clear uptick in consumer enthusiasm for men's fashion in recent years. .
"If you look at the men's fashions weeks in Europe and you look at how
men are dressing today," he says, "there is more of a focus on looking,
and dressing, stylishly. I think it started because, to be honest, most
men aren't wearing a suit every day anymore. They're looking for clothes
that are a bit more laid-back but still have that polish and that
power. It's almost forcing them to pay more attention to detail and fit,
which I think everyone can appreciate."
Another factor in rising interest is what Kolb, of CFDA, calls "the
democratization of fashion" — for example, capsule collections from top
designers at retailers like Target — and of course the ability to shop
online. (Indeed, Amazon is the marquee sponsor of the inaugural Fashion
Week: Men's, to be held in a downtown Manhattan venue.)
And there's also, he notes, the growing celebrity influence — for
example, high-profile athletes showing a love for fashion. "These guys
have shown a less traditional sense of style that has trickled down,"
says Kolb.
The event comes at a busy time for the buyers, editors and celebrities
who attend fashion shows: on the heels of Fashion Weeks in London, Milan
and Paris. "We're very aware of the fatigue that may exist," says Kolb.
"But we've created an exciting roster of designers. It does require a
couple more days and a bit more of a budget, but there are some American
editors who maybe can't afford to travel to Europe, but they can come
to New York." (For those who do come, Kolb says organizers have been
offering incentives to ease travel costs.)
The week will surely have a more relaxed feel than the frenetic women's
weeks; many of the designers are showing presentations rather than
runway productions.
"Different designers are engaging in different ways," Kolb says. "It all adds up to real support for the business."
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