Hardy-ha-ha. There was a penis on the catwalk. Well, on a few of the silhouettes – and only if you were looking really intently. The headlines will tell you otherwise, but in all honesty, there wasn’t anything overt about Owens’s choice to use full frontal nudity on the catwalk. You caught little glimpses from under the curved hemlines and strategically placed in the toga-esque gowns, but nothing was in your face. Did it feel obscene, considering this might have been a catwalk first? No. It certainly didn’t detract from the clothes, which sought to deconstruct in the most poetic fashion. When asked why he chose to expose his models, Owens said: “Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture – it packs a punch.
It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world! This was our private moment.” Yes, there are many quips and puns to be made, and the show will surely make good media fodder – but the real story here is about freedom. These are clothes that would have looked strange with underwear underneath. So why not let it all hang out? Rick Owens's new Fall/Winter line is all dick and no style. This morning, during his Paris runway show, the famed designer revealed his latest men's collection.At a time when sex and censorship are on everyone's minds, Rick Owens – fashion's king of kink – has entered unchartered territory: male nudity. During his AW15 'SPHINX' show, the designer sent models down the runway in oversized peep-hole garments that gave the audience a flash of bare skin beneath as they walked – and in a few cases, revealed their penises.
Susie Bubble, Dazed's representative at the show, said: "I liked that you hardly noticed it. It wasn't nudity for the sake of nudity. I honestly didn't see until somebody pointed out the dick flaps and the undie holes."
Famously, Owens isn't afraid of dealing with sex as a subject matter. Last season's show was a homage to a moment in Nijinksy's 1912 ballet "Afternoon of a Faun", where a faun masturbates over his lost nymph's scarf.
At the time, Owens said of the ballet's climactic point: “Everybody in the audience, with all their jewels, are just waiting for this guy to hump the scarf. I love that!”
The designer also called on legendary S&M photographer Rick Castro to shoot his 93-year-old father for his AW14 lookbook, a selection of photographs that reaffirmed Owens's
position as playfully confrontational when it comes to the human body..
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