KTZ Spring 2016

The sexual energy at LCM is palpable. From Christopher Shannon to Sibling, the fetishisation of the male form feels rather unrestrained for KTZ Spring/Summer 16. Set in XXL, the dungeon gay club in Southwark, KTZ certainly took the baton and ran with it. Although, as Creative Director Marjan Pejoski would say, the starting point was unassumingly innocent, citing the “Endless Possibilities” of youth where character and personality are malleable according to a myriad of experiences.

Having found its niche in a very discerning sect of youths, and now standing as a subcultural institution, KTZ continues its investigation into what makes young people tick. Today revealed a different side of Kokon To Zai, a departure from the hard-edged strict dress codes and a willingness to experiment.

See-through raincoat material matched with geometric paneling, colour blocking, and solid impenetrable bodies that filled the armoury-like garments launched the show to a punchy start. Guests had to peep through metal fences to see the clothes, in keeping with the fetish undertones, as models swooped down the runway at break-neck speed. The backdrop of Chris Burden’s “Metropolis II,” one of Pejoski’s other inspirations, set the tone as hyperfuturistic.

 To use sex within the context of cruising in a club in order to express the immediacy of the “Endless Possibilities” was both evocative and ingenious. Beyond just the thematic exploration, the collection offered a play on unconventional textures including a complete look made of cork and Tyvek, a material used often in envelopes for waterproofing.

 When metallic numbers matched the taste of iron in the air, the show took on a multi-sensory spin. By the end of it, models were clad in deconstructed motor racing gear complete with drogue parachutes, as if to say “slow down, you’re moving too fast.” The larger-than-life styling has always been KTZ’s strength and is probably why the brand resonates to so well with club culture. The bravado of the collection felt like KTZ’s projection of its ideal self.

On the whole, the spectrum of visual ideas that ensued on the runway provided a glimpse into the offcuts of KTZ before it achieved its long-standing status. Raw ideas being put forth with little filtering gave a sense of spontaneity and imagination. At a crossroad where it had just repositioned its womenswear show across the pond to New York Fashion Week, this retrospection could bring valuable lessons for the future.

Bobby Abley Spring/Summer 2016 London

Bobby Abley a revolutionary fashion designer he made it again at London Collection Men, for his Menswear he added and designed a really colourful and dynamic sportswear line. Cropped tops, running joggers playing with Stars Wars licensing in every design.

Moschino at the Palzzo Corsini!

Italian label Moschino was the guest of honor at the latest edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, and the brand’s creative director, designer Jeremy Scott, presented his spring/summer 2016 menswear collection in the luxurious setting of Palazzo Corsini. Sending on the runway an eccentric and irreverent collection, Scott delivers once again his signature strong sense of irony, providing an over-the-top extravaganza, that mixes different and contrasting inspirations, like cyclists, moto GP, Louis XVI and Casanova.

 The final result is a bold and fun spring/summer offering, where the opulence of a decadent romanticism, made of lace, brocades, ruffles, furs, sequins and precious embroideries is juxtaposed with cartoon prints, vibrant colors and motorcycle race suits. This isn’t probably an easy to wear collection, but it’s certainly fun to look at it.

Moschino Spring/Summer 2016 Florence

Designer Jeremy Scott made his MOSCHINO a royalty kingdom fashion show at Pitti Uomo embodied Casanovas style on its Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 making an unique event. Embracing logos, graphics, art pop, cartoons and gentleman’s old school patterns, Scott created a lineup not for the faint of heart. From sports jackets to sports career outfits, revolutionary a sport casanova whole look , Moschino’s spring/summer 2016 outing was an exercise in free expression.

Jeremy Scott has heralded his first outing at Pitti Uomo with a vibrant and expressive menswear collection for Moschino. Blending past, in cartoonish neo-classical and European formality, with future, through motor-racing and cycling-inspired Lycra, the designer has developed a collection that seems to collate all of the areas in which Moschino has excelled in the past. Tearing up the rulebook of formality, Scott has added further flourishes of playfulness to Moschino’s already tongue-in-cheek repertoire. Check out the gallery for the tailcoats and stylized cycling shorts that have heralded Scott’s arrival in Florence.

Sporty Glam & Playful Accent in Moschino Uomo

Sibling Spring/Summer 2016 London Fashion Week

“Jocks are bastards” was more or less the substance of the J.D. Salinger quote from The Catcher in the Rye that prefaced the Sibling threesome’s spring manifesto. But the show that followed was more pitcher than catcher, more wry than rye. If it was an ode to college football—complete with a handful of cheerleaders poured or laced into second-skin sportswear—you have to imagine a college where Russ Meyer was dean. And quite why three iconoclastic Brits with a past eye to punkish fun-poking should latch onto this particular subject was only partially clarified by the manifesto’s blithe reference to “the desecration of male subcultures.”

Live from London: Hilfiger Underwearline 2016

Tommy Hilfiger has built a locker room during London Collections: Men to present the Spring/Summer 2016 underwear. line.

Uvenio KickStarter Begins today!

 

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/396907637/uvenios-coffee-table-book

The Uvenio Collezioni is creating a glossy Coffee Table book and it's Uvenio's most personal and expressive book with several Photographers along with  beautiful Male Models, Female Models, and Makeup/Hair Stylist,  Paintings, drawings, and sculptures from Uvenio's personal collection are matched with fashion shots and couture fantasies in hundreds of playful and provocative juxtapositions. This heartfelt salute to contemporary art and the great masters of the early twentieth century demonstrates the profound influence of art on Uvenio's visionary style. 

From the theatrical to the whimsical, Uvenio's designs have something for everyone. On these pages, his sketches and finished works of haute couture, ready-to-wear, accessories, jewelry, and opera and ballet costumes — as well as artworks created by several of Uvenio's closet friends. The pictures are accompanied by a variety of writing. A new short story.
The upcoming Uvenio book focuses on the master craftspeople and the history of the development of their creations based on the skilled handcrafting of each unique creation.  The book offers insight into the evolution of the Uvenio style. 

The book is divided into 10 sections, by themes and The sequencing of the photographs makes for an amusing, sexy presentation. Images of outrageous glamour and bold sexuality, opulence and daring. All of Uvenio is creative genius from the fashion world through his intuitive understanding of both women and how a changing culture influenced the way they wanted to dress.

Top photographers  interpret Uvenio's kaleidoscopic vision of women and men's fashion. Whether at ease by the sea, or dressed for business in New York or Milan, the Uvenio man radiates self-assurance and defines contemporary taste. The Uvenio man - drawn to a timeless elegance. An extraordinary palette, bold patterns, a rich selection of textures, and uncompromising tailoring define the Uvenio approach to masculine elegance. Along with fashion photography, this lush volume captures some of Uvenio's best-known clients in his clothes.
Uvenio's fashion is about such bold and unequivocal choices. Unafraid of being denounced by those less daring and more fearful than himself, he makes fashion meant to be worn by those who share his desire for risk--who share his honesty about sexuality and his self-confidence in aesthetic choice. Traditionally, fashion designers begin with innovations in their first collections, develop fans and followers, and ultimately settle into a style that is the designer's trademark, with modest adaptations to the season and fashion currents. Indeed, Uvenio is an uncompromising designer--one who develops and expands not only in the public arena of fashion but also in the even larger area of popular culture.
The Italian Designer designs are celebrated as unabashedly sexual, they nonetheless possess a strong sense of personal grace.
He shows an unerring talent for bringing from the street those extravagant and graceful elements that represent the best in contemporary style. No major designer living today has more successfully transfigured the street's reality into convincing style--all the while keeping in sight the extravagant possibilities of Baroque and Renaissance motifs since his role model, Gianni Versace.. Uvenio understands, perhaps better than any designer of recent times, that fashion's place in the world is at the center of visual spectacle. With intelligent commentary and celebrated photographs of Uvenio designs, this book presents the Uvenio spectacle in all its boldness and sensuality.